Day 61

Jesus what a day! That is the opening line on my diary entry for today. And it most definitely was. I have never experienced a head wind like it. Constant, very strong and very hot. A grand total of 44kms of hell. With a mouthful of dust and no energy left I made it to Dergachi. Sitting outside a shop drinking water and sugary drinks in an effort regain some energy I chat in my very limited  broken Russian in an effort to find somewhere to sleep. Fortunately someone knows and asks me to follow him in his car.

The hotel is on the edge of town, for a little while I was not so sure where my guide was leading me. Tired paranoid voices had images in my mind of fellows with baseball bats taking everything I owned. Instead I had an angel that led me straight to the hotel a paid for me to stay! Russian hospitality is second to none.

The hotel is a little basic run by a plump babushka with Russian workers staying and a little shop at the front. Exhausted I flop down on the edge of a bed, only for sweat to pour into my eyes and cause me to look as if I am weeping as the babushka walks in! I feel a little silly but convey that I am tired and sleep for the afternoon.

In the evening I wake and walk out to the porch and meet the other guests. Through the use of Google translate we strike up a fractured conversation and get to know each other. I am invited to dinner with them, and drinks are passed around. The drink of choice is a Kazakhstany Brandy, somewhat strong but it goes down anyway! 

Day 60

The Steppe. Flat, open and stretching out for what seems like forever. No shade and hot hot sun! The road is peppered with funny little towns all with massive grain silos. I guess this is the bread basket of Russia and it is noticeable! I have a long day and ride on into the dark. I spy a town twinkling in the distance and think it can't be far now. But it is! Light travels far in the dark and these lights never seem to get any nearer. But after sulking and swearing they do. I find a rest spot and cafe, with a very bossy matriarch in control and some rather drunk daughters in attendance. I don't know whether to be frightened or excited!

This sight will become very familiar to me. The emptiness of The Steppe!

Day 59

I tried to leave Saratov, and got about 5kms down the road before realising that cycling is not for me today. On the other side of The Volga is Engels, a town smaller than Saratov but with the same seasidey feel about it. I stayed in what seemed like a very cheap but plush hotel (I realised why it was so cheap when I look out of my window and see nothing but a brick wall!) and decide on a bit of sight seeing. Engels again has a prom like Saratov, and beaches full of sun bathing people. I paddle, people watch, drink Kvass, get a bite to eat and then crash out by 9!

Day 58

Another day of wondering around. I visited the Yuri Gugarin museum which contained mainly paintings by children of the cosmonaut. Later I went to the Saratov State Art Museum, which was really rather good. And rather nicely if anyone fancies a look at its treasures then it is featured on Google Street view where one can "walk" around.

Half way across The Volga from Saratov there is a small sandy island, which is used a s a bit of a beach escape from the city. I finish my day there looking over the river back at Saratov.

This is Saratov from the bridge that spans The Volga. My hotel is the yellow building.

Day 57

Sometimes it is good to be lazy! Sleeping in after a few beers the previous evening, strolling along the river, a quick dip and then the odd ice cream to cool down!

Day 56

Road quality can change suddenly. And it seems very suddenly when one crosses an Oblast border. The roads in Saratov Oblast are not good. The roads in Penza Oblast are good. From smooth as silk to bump bump bump in a matter of inches I cross into Saratov.

Saratov city is nice however. Fairly large, and next to the Volga, it has a seaside feel about it. A long promenade next to the river sports many cafes, bars and restaurants. People walk, ride, skate board up and down. Boat trips can take you up and down the Volga, from here to Moscow one way or to Volgograd the other, Party boats go round and round in the night time booming load music and disco lights. And to remove the hangover the next day there are plenty of Swimming points a long the river where people take a plunge. I think I am going to like it here, a few days R and R I feel!

Day 55

Sometimes traveling one sees the oddest of things. I am not sure of the reason but as I left Penza the central square was dominated by veterans drinking beer and commemorating/celebrating something. One even had a tank with him that the ex soldiers patted like a mascot. But the oddest element of the parade I thought was the attire. Looking all rough and tough in their tattoos, berets and stripey tops reminded me of being swamped by extras from a Jean Paul Gaultier perfume commercial. Not perhaps the image of ultra masculinity that the soldiers wanted to convey, but to me they looked to be conveying a "different" form of masculinity!

The ride was good however. Sunny and not too hilly. In the evening I made Petrovsk and possibly the best road house I have seen yet. The bedroom was none too fancy, but the owners kept proudly pointing into the basement and saying "Banya". I went down only to find an absolutely gorgeous banya, and furthermore it was empty so i had the place to myself. Very hot showers an very cold, deep plunge pools I now know are the best way to recover from a long day's ride! I slept well.


Jean Paul Gaultier Perfume.

Rough Tough Soldiers.