It wasn't a cafe, but a private house. The owners looked most confused at this sweaty foreigner turning up asking for food and water. The sweaty foreigner was a little concerned as he only had about 2 litres of water left and 120kms of desert in front of him. I peddled on but was rather worried. I would have to heavily ration, or hope that I could get fluids from a passing lorry or car driver.
Fortunately the worrying was in vain. After about 2 hours I saw a small village hall and a small house next to it. In the house an old babushka operated an informal store selling drinks and snacks. Very relieved I rested, drank and bought half the store! I headed out with more confidence.
But today was tiring. About 50kms from Aralsk I started to feel very tired. I stopped at the most God awful shit covered roadside picnic spot imaginable for some rest and a drink. My break was short lived as a rather drunk a little annoyingly over friendly lorry driver pulled up and tried to make friends. I thought sod this and hit the road.
I didn't last long, after 20 kms the headwind was killing me and I was utterly exhausted. I noticed a big road sign that had shade behind it and stopped, sat in the shade and then snoozed for about an hour. I woke hoping that things would be better. They were not.
Still exhausted I pressed on. The sun may have been a little lower but the wind was not. I got to about 15kms from Aralsk and found another cafe. I ducked in, ate a rather horrible meal and drank 3 litres of ice tea. The sugar felt so good! I left the cafe to find a massive dust cloud sweeping over everything. This area of Kazakhstan is famous for this phenomenon.
The final 15kms were torture. The wind relentless. I would pass camels and what I thought was the shore of the former Aral Sea until I finally made the edge of Aralsk. With a turn of 90 degrees to get onto the road that leads into the town the wind was now a cross wind and my moral was high. I had finally made it! I zoomed into town with energy suddenly restored, found a hotel and most importantly a shop that sold beer! The evening was spent lazily in my room and enjoying the dripping bath tap that was the nearest thing I had to a shower for 4 days.
Fortunately the worrying was in vain. After about 2 hours I saw a small village hall and a small house next to it. In the house an old babushka operated an informal store selling drinks and snacks. Very relieved I rested, drank and bought half the store! I headed out with more confidence.
But today was tiring. About 50kms from Aralsk I started to feel very tired. I stopped at the most God awful shit covered roadside picnic spot imaginable for some rest and a drink. My break was short lived as a rather drunk a little annoyingly over friendly lorry driver pulled up and tried to make friends. I thought sod this and hit the road.
I didn't last long, after 20 kms the headwind was killing me and I was utterly exhausted. I noticed a big road sign that had shade behind it and stopped, sat in the shade and then snoozed for about an hour. I woke hoping that things would be better. They were not.
Still exhausted I pressed on. The sun may have been a little lower but the wind was not. I got to about 15kms from Aralsk and found another cafe. I ducked in, ate a rather horrible meal and drank 3 litres of ice tea. The sugar felt so good! I left the cafe to find a massive dust cloud sweeping over everything. This area of Kazakhstan is famous for this phenomenon.
The final 15kms were torture. The wind relentless. I would pass camels and what I thought was the shore of the former Aral Sea until I finally made the edge of Aralsk. With a turn of 90 degrees to get onto the road that leads into the town the wind was now a cross wind and my moral was high. I had finally made it! I zoomed into town with energy suddenly restored, found a hotel and most importantly a shop that sold beer! The evening was spent lazily in my room and enjoying the dripping bath tap that was the nearest thing I had to a shower for 4 days.
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